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Enthusiasts of this sport discipline will find
many itineraries with differing grades of
difficulty, and of which a short listing is provided.
Furthermore, a detailed presentation
is made of the Campo dei Fiori itineraries:
this is the area’s “historical” gymnasium,
even if a little dated when compared
with the modern requirements of this sport.
For more detailed information we suggest
consulting the Versante Sud Edizioni guide
on “Sporting and modern
climbing between Varese and the Canton
Ticino”.
Enjoy your climbing! 1. Monte Campo dei Fiori
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Mount Campo dei Fiori, also known as
Mount Tre Croci, makes up a long ridge
which defines Valcuvia to the North, the Varese
Lake to the South and the Valganna to
the East. This area boast an important past
as a climbing gym: in fact, a number of Varese-
born personages took their first vertical
steps on its rocks, going on to leave their
mark on the history of mountain climbing
as well. Still nowadays, the Campo dei Fiori
gym is used for courses in rock climbing,
thanks to the good number of easy routes.
As far as facilities are concerned, the cliffs
provide several routes with pitons set according
to modern criteria, even though at times
the distance between these protections
is lengthy, while others, which are in the majority,
are equipped with normal pitons that
are almost always possible to integrate with
nuts, friend and cords.
2. Brezzo di Bedero
Very well exposed, the Brezzo cliff provides routes with overhangs that call for good climbing techniques. 3. Cassano Valcuvia Subdivided into four sectors, the Cassano V. cliff offers routes of varying difficulty, able to satisfy all levels of climbers. 4. Monte Orsa The climbing structures are set along the mountain’s eastern crest where, during the first world war, defensive tunnels were dug. Good spit set pitons and secure regular rock nails. 5. Sangiano Small cliff with a good number of marked and equipped climbs. 6. San Martino Subdivided into three sectors, the S.Martino cliff offers mixed climbing with more concentrated itineraries in the third sector. Good rock quality and recently upgraded pitons. 7. Valganna This is continuous bastion on which progress is mainly negotiated over small ledges. A good technique is required. Indoor climbing:
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